The 8 STEPS of a NOMÈS piece
Your Most Ask Question
"How much time do you spend making one piece of jewelry?”
It’s funny, I wouldn’t have imagined this would be the question I get asked the most.
And every time, my answer is that I don’t really know. It might not sound very professional, I’ll admit, but a piece of jewelry comes to life through a sequence of techniques and attention to detail that isn’t really measurable in time, but in steps.
The handmade nature of my pieces also means that time varies, some pieces simply take longer than others.
To give you a more concrete idea, because I don’t want to leave you completely without an answer, the wax design process (the very first modeling stage) is the pure creative moment and requires a lot of patience. It can take anywhere from 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the design and the initial inspiration.
But here I’m only talking about one step of the process, as each piece is created through a sequence of around 8 different stages.
Step 1, Selecting stones
I always start with a semi-precious stone. I select each gem one by one for its shape, symbolism, or colour.
This is a central part of shaping the collection, as the stones are the soul of my jewels and their first inspiration.
Step 2, Wax modeling
I shape the jewel using a flexible blue wax and a soldering iron. Under heat, the wax softens and forms around the stone and a sizing stick.
I often compare it to polymer clay, as the wax can be reshaped endlessly, so I stop only when the form feels right.
Step 3, Casting silver
This step transforms the wax model into solid silver through a process called lost wax casting. The wax is covered to create a mold, then heated until it melts away, leaving a hollow space in the shape of the design.
Molten sterling silver is poured in, replacing the wax completely.
Step 4, Polishing
Fresh from casting, the silver is still rough and matte. Polishing is a slow process where the piece is filed, sanded, and gradually smoothed to remove imperfections.
Different tools are used step by step, until the metal reveals its natural shine.
Step 5, Stone setting
This is one of the most delicate steps, where the stone is carefully placed and secured into its silver setting.
It requires great precision, as the way a stone is set can transform the whole character of the piece and bring the design into its true balance.
Step 6, Finishing
After setting the stone, the piece enters its final stage. Finishing is about refining every detail, smoothing and polishing again to reach the final result.
Step 7, Engraving
The piece is then laser engraved with the Nomès logo and the 925 mark to certify its quality.
This precise step gives each piece its identity.
Step 8, Gold plating
This is the final step, where I choose whether or not to give the piece a gold finish. The plating company I work with is officially certified and uses 3.5 microns of 18k gold.
I’ve personally always been quite hesitant about gold plating when I was a big jewelry buyer, so finding a truly reliable supplier was extremely important to me.
You can see reviews of my gold plating here.
