The making of a Nomès piece
"How much time do I spend making one piece of jewelry?”
Each piece is created through a series of artisanal techniques, making the time involved difficult to measure.
Since every piece is handmade, some naturally take longer than others. Each one goes through around 7 different stages, requiring patience, precision and craftsmanship at every step of the creative process.
Step 1, Selecting stones
I always start with a semi-precious stone. I select each gem one by one for its shape, symbolism, or colour.
This is a central part of shaping the collection, as the stones are the soul of my jewels and their first inspiration.
Step 2, Wax modeling
I shape the jewel using a flexible blue wax and a soldering iron. Under heat, the wax softens and forms around the stone and a sizing stick.
I often compare it to polymer clay, as the wax can be reshaped endlessly, so I stop only when the form feels right.
Step 3, Casting silver
This step transforms the wax model into solid silver through a process called lost wax casting. The wax is covered to create a mold, then heated until it melts away, leaving a hollow space in the shape of the design.
Molten sterling silver is poured in, replacing the wax completely.
Step 4, Polishing
Fresh from casting, the silver is still rough and matte. Polishing is a slow process where the piece is filed, sanded, and gradually smoothed to remove imperfections.
Different tools are used step by step, until the metal reveals its natural shine.
Step 5, Stone setting
This is one of the most delicate steps, where the stone is carefully placed and secured into its silver setting.
It requires great precision, as the way a stone is set can transform the whole character of the piece and bring the design into its true balance.
Step 6, Finishing
After setting the stone, the piece enters its final stage. Finishing is about refining every detail, smoothing and polishing again to reach the final result.
Step 7, Gold plating or Silver coating
For some pieces, the final step is giving the silver a vermeil finish. Vermeil is 18k gold plated 925 Sterling Silver, with a 5-micron layer of 18k gold.
As I handcraft every creation myself, the quality of my gold plating is an absolute priority. That’s why I chose vermeil, which offers a thicker layer of gold and a more durable, long-lasting finish than standard gold plating.
For pieces that stay silver, I use a high-purity Ag 1000 silver coating to enhance and preserve the silver’s natural brightness.
As these finishes are delicate and naturally wear over time, taking good care of your piece will help preserve their finish.
